Prepare Your Area
Get your molds and work area ready first. Soap can move quickly once
the batch is started. Remember that cleanliness counts: keep your counters and work areas clean from debris and dust.
Use plastic, stainless steel, ceramic or glass containers and utensils
only. Unbreakable containers are preferable because they are safer.
Wear long rubber gloves, an apron & safety glasses. Do not allow any skin to be exposed to lye.
Prepare the lye
water first, following the safety instructions following. Weigh the lye very
accurately. Higher amounts of excess fat give softer soaps with more
emolliency. Excessive lye can cause irritation or burning from the
finished soap. Excess fat ranges from 5 to 8 % are recommended to
prevent problems.
Lye Safety
Always wear safety glasses and gloves.
Lye can cause severe burns including blindness. Lye should be added to water. If water is
poured onto lye, the reaction can cause
a volcano of lye water and serious injury. Avoid breathing fumes. Label your containers. Never leave lye unattended &
keep away from children & pets.
Equipment
You will need the following:
safety glasses
apron
long rubber gloves
vinegar/vinegar spray for lye cleanup (neutralizes lye)
accurate scale
liquid measuring utensils
long handled plastic or stainless steel spoons
plastic bowl to weigh lye
melting container for oils
large plastic or stainless mixing vessel
stick blender
soap molds & freezer paper |
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The Process
Pour the water in the large plastic or stainless mixing vessel and carefully add lye to water & mix well. Since this mix will become very hot and give off strongly irritating fumes, it is best to mix in an open air setting or a well ventilated room.
Avoid breathing the fumes. Set aside to cool in a protected area
while preparing the oils.
Melt the solid oils, butters and waxes and combine with the liquid oils. Temperature measurements are not necessary.
Add the oils to the lye solution. Mix well
using a stick blender. Mix for a few minutes to begin establish the
emulsion. Do not worry if it takes more than one try to establish the
emulsion. Mix for 2-3 minutes then allow the mixture to rest for 5 minutes; mix again. Follow with more mix and rest cycles until trace occurs.
Prepare your fragrances and additives during the rest cycles. The soap begins to thicken at trace. The blender will begin to work
harder. The soap will hold a trace of drop impressions or stir marks.
Tracing soap appears like a thickened cooked custard. Add your fragrances
and other non-fragile additives quickly. Give one thorough mix with the
stick blender. Mix in fragile additives such as herbs, with a spoon.
Pour into freezer
paper-lined, plastic- or formica-coated molds. Cover and allow to set up
undisturbed. The soap will warm up and go through a clear gel phase as
it finishes curing. Cover the molds during the intial cure to prevent
soda ash from forming on the surface and to retain heat.
Clean your equipment with hot soapy water. Do not pour large
amounts of raw soap down the drain. It can cure in place and create
plumbing problems, particularly with septic systems.
Allow soap to cure for 1-3 days before demolding. The soap should be loosely covered
during this phase. Cut into bars and allow to cure in a protected
cool dry area. The bars will take 2 to 3 weeks to finish
curing and harden.
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Once your soap has hardened, cut it into logs and then into bars. Use a rippled mandoline to give your soaps character and added texture. |
Sound like fun? Let's get started!
Click here to register for Soapmaking 101,
in sunny Tucson, AZ.
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