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How to Blend and Formulate with
Non SLS Surfactants & Synthetic Detergents

What is a non-sulfate surfactant and why should you care?

For those who do not wish to use SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) or ALS (aluminum lauryl sulfate) soaps, Snowdrift Farm offers our non-sulfate surfactant blends. These blends are mild and non-irritating, safe for all skin types.

The first step to understanding non-sulfate surfactants is understanding about sulfated surfactants.

Sulfate-based surfactants have been available for years and are very effective cleaners. The first was produced in the 19th century by treating castor oil with sulfuric acid. This resulted in what is today known as Turkey Red oil, (AKA sulfated castor oil) the very first synthetic detergent. This material is effective, and is used even today in the leather-making and industrial dye arenas.

Please do not use turkey red oil on your skin as it is very irritating.

The search for more effective materials led German chemists to the sulfation of lauryl alcohol, creating sodium lauryl sulfate, or SLS. The sulfate group is strongly acidic and can become very irritating. Many methods are employed to reduce the irritancy of SLS, but it cannot be made completely non-irritating. SLS’ greatest assets are its powerful cleaning and sudsing abilities.

Over the years, a variety of non-sulfate surfactants have been developed to reduce the irritancy, but few were usable as primary surfactants. Finally, poly decyl glucoside carboxylate (Plantapon) was developed to fill this niche. It has the power to act as a primary surfactant without the irritancy associated with the sulfates. It is prepared from glucose and fatty alcohols.

Another surfactant, sodium lauroyl lactylate, is derived from milk and coconut oil. It is a mild secondary surfactant and provides an elegant, soothing feel. Coincidentally, it has a long history of use in the food industry as a dough conditioner.

Cocamidopropyl betaine is another very mild surfactant which helps create and support foam and bubble structure.

PEG-150 distearate also known as polyethyleneglycol distearate is an emulsifier and thickening agent, used to help combine ingredients and prevent separation. It is also used in lubricants and contributes to the "slippery" feel and yields crystal clear liquid soaps and shampoos.

These products are combined to create cleansing materials that possess the cleaning and foaming of traditional sulfate-based systems, without the irritancy. Each of these new surfactants is biodegradable.

Click here to purchase surfactants.

Click here for MSDS information.

Caution: Adding fragrance or essential oils directly to these blends will cause the gel to thin and possibly become opaque. Using cocamidopropyl betaine (cocobetaine) as a carrier for the fragrance may prevent thinning and clouding from occurring. Use 2 parts cocobetaine to 1 part fragrancing material.

Results can not be guaranteed, however, since all fragrance oils are created differently. Whenever possible, we recommend adding your fragrancing material to the sodium lauroyl stearate/glucoside mix (see above) near the beginning of the process, rather than at the end.

 

General Usage Information

PEG 150 distearate is a very versatile thickening agent for liquid soaps and yields crystal clear soaps and shampoos.

This is the first material to prepare/add to any surfactant blend formula. PEG-150 distearate must be fully hydrated in water before the batch is prepared. This typically takes 10-12 hours and is best accomplished overnight. The blend should be mixed regularly (every few hours) during the hydration process to speed it up. Continuous mixing works best and will reduce your processing time substantially. A stick blender or other high shear mixer is the best choice. A low viscosity milky dispersion results. The product is not fully hydrated if discrete bits of gel-like material exist. The mixture will thicken as the other ingredients are added. Surfactants should generally be the last ingredient to add using this system.

The surfactant mixture must be made prior to creating the final product. The sodium lauroyl lactylate is a room temperature solid. It must be warmed to 140 to 155 F to make it easy to work with. Place the closed container in a hot water bath to warm it for use.

The poly decyl glucoside carboxylate should also be warmed to about 140F to help the dissolving process. Add the warmed sodium lauroyl lactylate to the decyl glucoside. Mix using a stick blender or other high speed shear mixer. The blending process may take several hours if the components are not completely melted when you begin. Otherwise, this process should be complete within an hour. Mix well again immediately before use. You should have a very thick liquid.

Add fragrancing materials to the completed sodium lauroyl lactylate/poly decyl glucoside mix for best results. Do not exceed 3% fragrance in any leave-on or rinse-off product. Your mix should remain thick.

Click here to purchase surfactants.

Click here for MSDS information.

QUICK N' EASY SHAMPOO

Makes about 1 gallon.

Water Phase
Water 90 oz.
PEG 150 distearate 0.5 oz.
Methyl paraben 0.2 oz. or ¼ tsp

Ensure that PEG 150 DS is fully dispersed before proceeding.

Surfactant Pre-Blend
Plantapon 10 oz.
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate 2 oz.

Prepare the pre-blend at the same time as the water phase is prepared to ensure that the sodium lauroyl lactylate is fully incorporated.

Surfactant C
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4 oz.

Additives
Silk Protein 1 oz.
Soy Quat 1 oz.

Fragrance
Essential oils up to 2 oz.

Final mixing:

Combine the additives to the water phase and mix well. Combine the surfactant blend and add essential ols or fragrancing materials to the water phase slowly. Add surfactant/fragrance blend to water phase. As the surfactant blend is mixed with the water phase, it will begin to thicken. Stir until the the viscosity stops building. A medium viscosity mixture will result. Add the cocamidopropyl betaine slowly to create the final mixture, thickening, qs.

 

QUICK N' EASY BATH GEL

Makes about 1 gallon.

Water Phase
Water 90 oz.
PEG 150 distearate 0.66 oz.
Methyl paraben 0.2 oz. or ¼ tsp

Ensure that PEG 150 DS is fully dispersed before proceeding.

Surfactant Pre-Blend
Plantapon 10 oz.
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate 2 oz.

Prepare the pre-blend at the same time as the water phase is prepared to ensure that the sodium lauroyl lactylate is fully incorporated.

Surfactant C
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4 oz.

Fragrance
Essential oils up to 2 oz.

Final mixing:

Combine the additives to the water phase and mix well. Combine the surfactant blend and add essential ols or fragrancing materials to the water phase slowly. Add surfactant/fragrance blend to water phase. As the surfactant blend is mixed with the water phase, it will begin to thicken. Stir until the the viscosity stops building. A medium viscosity mixture will result. Add the cocamidopropyl betaine slowly to create the final mixture, thickening, qs.

Click here to purchase surfactants.

Click here for MSDS information.

QUICK N' EASY Liquid Soap

Makes about 1 gallon.

Water Phase
Water 90 oz.
PEG 150 distearate 0.5 oz.
Methyl paraben 0.2 oz. or ¼ tsp

Ensure that PEG 150 DS is fully dispersed before proceeding.

Surfactant Pre-Blend
Plantapon 10 oz.
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate 2 oz.

Prepare the pre-blend at the same time as the water phase is prepared to ensure that the sodium lauroyl lactylate is fully incorporated.

Surfactant C
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4 oz.

Additives
Silk Protein 1 oz.

Fragrance
Essential oils up to 2 oz.

Final mixing:

Combine the additives to the water phase and mix well. Combine the surfactant blend and add essential ols or fragrancing materials to the water phase slowly. Add surfactant/fragrance blend to water phase. As the surfactant blend is mixed with the water phase, it will begin to thicken. Stir until the the viscosity stops building. A medium viscosity mixture will result. Add the cocamidopropyl betaine slowly to create the final mixture, thickening, qs.
 

PET SHAMPOO

Makes about 32 fl oz.

This shampoo is not thickened for easy application and spreading through the fur.

Water Phase
Water 17 fl. oz.
Glycerine 4 fl. oz.

Combine the glycerine with the waterbefore proceeding.

Surfactant Blend
Plantapon LGC Sorb 8 fl. oz.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 3 fl. oz.

Fragrance (optional)

Citronella oil 2 tsp
Lavender oil 1/2 tsp

Cedarwood oil

1/2 tsp

Final mixing:

Combine the fragrance with the Plantapon and mix well. Add this mixture to the water. Add the Cocamidopropyl betaine and mix well. This mixture will be very thin to help ease spreading the shampoo throughout the coat. Package in squeeze bottles to ease its application.

 

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