What is a non-sulfate surfactant and why should you care?
For those who do not wish to use SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) or ALS (aluminum lauryl sulfate) soaps, Snowdrift Farm offers our non-sulfate surfactant blends. These blends are mild and non-irritating, safe for all skin types.
The first step to understanding non-sulfate surfactants is understanding about sulfated surfactants.
Sulfate-based surfactants have been available for years and are very effective cleaners. The first was produced in the 19th century by treating castor oil with sulfuric acid. This resulted in what is today known as Turkey Red oil, (AKA sulfated castor oil) the very first synthetic detergent. This material is effective, and is used even today in the leather-making and industrial dye arenas.
Please do not use turkey red oil on your skin as it is very irritating.
The search for more effective materials led German chemists to the sulfation of lauryl alcohol, creating sodium lauryl sulfate, or SLS. The sulfate group is strongly acidic and can become very irritating. Many methods are employed to reduce the irritancy of SLS, but it cannot be made completely non-irritating. SLS’ greatest assets are its powerful cleaning and sudsing abilities.
Over the years, a variety of non-sulfate surfactants have been developed to reduce the irritancy, but few were usable as primary surfactants. Finally, poly decyl glucoside carboxylate (Plantapon) was developed to fill this niche. It has the power to act as a primary surfactant without the irritancy associated with the sulfates. It is prepared from glucose and fatty alcohols.
Another surfactant, sodium lauroyl lactylate, is derived from milk and coconut oil. It is a mild secondary surfactant and provides an elegant, soothing feel. Coincidentally, it has a long history of use in the food industry as a dough conditioner.
Cocamidopropyl betaine is another very mild surfactant which helps create and support foam and bubble structure.
PEG-150 distearate also known as polyethyleneglycol distearate is an emulsifier and thickening agent, used to help combine ingredients and prevent separation. It is also used in lubricants and contributes to the "slippery" feel and yields crystal clear liquid soaps and shampoos.
These products are combined to create cleansing materials that possess the cleaning and foaming of traditional sulfate-based systems, without the irritancy. Each of these new surfactants is biodegradable.
Click here to purchase surfactants.
Click here for MSDS information.
Caution: Adding fragrance or essential oils directly to these blends will cause the gel to thin and possibly become opaque. Using cocamidopropyl betaine (cocobetaine) as a carrier for the fragrance may prevent thinning and clouding from occurring. Use 2 parts cocobetaine to 1 part fragrancing material.
Results can not be guaranteed, however, since all fragrance oils are created differently. Whenever possible, we recommend adding your fragrancing material to the sodium lauroyl stearate/glucoside mix (see above) near the beginning of the process, rather than at the end. |