The potassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid, also known as licorice root, dipotassium glycyrrhizate is an excellent skin lightener and brightener.
Derived from the plant Glycyrrhiza glabra, or licorice root, it is reputed to provide anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties by regulating sebum. In hair care applications, it is claimed to provide improvements to greasy, oily conditions. Many upscale cosmetic and body care manufacturers add dipotassium glycyrrhizate to anti-acne and skin soothing remedies. As a note, glycyrrhizic acid is used as a sweetener (it is 50 times sweeter than sugar) and also as a cough suppressant in many cough and cold remedies.
This material is supplied as a free-flowing white to pale yellow powder. It is freely soluble in water and in dilute ethanol, and slightly soluble in pure ethanol.
Use rate is .5 to 1% (one-half to one percent) of the total batch weight. Increased use rates may cause skin sensitization. Always test first.
Adding dipotassium glycyrrhizate to formulation is easy. Since this material is water soluble, simply measure out the required amount and dissolve into the water phase of your formula. If you have an already existing lotion to which you would like to add dipotassium glycyrrhizate, such as our Alba Botanica lotion, dissolve the material in a small amount of distilled water and add to the base. Mix well with a stick blender or other mechanical stirrer.
Please note: Always apply a sun screen when using dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Because it is a tyrosinase inhibitor, it reduces the skin's ability to produce melanin, which protects against sunburn.
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